Most of the Cyclades rise steeply out of the sea, their villages stacked along ridges. Koufonisia lies almost flat. Ano Koufonisi, the inhabited island, can be crossed on foot in an afternoon, and its shore is a run of pale coves and clear shallows that look unreal until one is standing in them. Anyone asking what to wear in Koufonisia should start from that shape: almost no climbing, a great deal of walking along the coast, and days divided between sand, water and a fishing harbour that still works for a living.

The two islands belong to the Small Cyclades, between Naxos and Amorgos. They are reached by ferry from Piraeus or by shorter crossings from Naxos; the smaller boats depend on the weather, and timetables thin as the season closes. Chora, the only village, sits beside the harbour where the fishing caiques tie up. Kato Koufonisi, the neighbour across a narrow channel, has no village at all, only a chapel, a few beaches and a taverna near the landing, and is reached by small boat.

The coastal path from Chora runs east past the beaches of Finikas, Fanos and Platia Pounta to Pori, the long bay on the far side of the island, passing the sea caves and the rock pool known as Piscina on the way. It is walked in sandals, under strong sun, with very little shade; bicycles are often available to hire in Chora for those who would rather ride part of the way. A man wants a shirt that stands away from the back: the Laos Linen Shirt in White, loose over PP linen shorts in Beige, is light enough for the whole walk. For women, the PP linen blouse in Lemon, open over swimwear, shades the shoulders without holding heat against them.

The sea is the centre of the day. For men, PP swim shorts in Oyster or Vanille cover every swim; the back pocket holds a room key and nothing more. A swim at Piscina or a long float at Pori ends with a towel, a little time in the sun and then a linen shirt for the walk to lunch. On the small boat across to Kato Koufonisi the swim shorts stay on, and the shirt travels folded in a bag until the boat is tied up at the landing.

Lunch is mostly fish, taken at tavernas by the harbour or behind the beach at Pori. Grilled octopus, fava and the day's catch are the usual order, and a long lunch stretches easily into the late afternoon. These are informal places, and what suits them is relaxed but considered. A Linen Ladies Set in Light Blue looks right with bare legs and leather sandals; the Amelia linen dress shirt in Blue is equally comfortable at a harbour table, with a straw hat and nothing else. For a man, the Cuba Linen Shirt in Pink adds colour to the table without asking for attention.

Evenings in Chora begin with the boats coming in. The bars along the harbour and in the lanes behind it fill slowly, and dinner is late. The breeze off the water is cooler than the day, though rarely cold in early autumn. A man can change into the Laos Long Sleeve Linen Shirt in Dark Blue with PP Casual Linen Trousers in Vanille; a woman into the Amelia linen dress shirt in Dubarry, whose colour carries the evening without needing jewellery to finish it.

Koufonisia is small, and most of what it needs arrives by boat, so the suitcase can be small too. A few shirts, the swim shorts and one thing for the evening are enough, and a shirt rinsed in fresh water at the end of the afternoon and hung on the balcony is usually ready to wear again by morning.

By mid-October Koufonisia belongs to its fishermen again, and the season's last rooms and tavernas are closing. The first fortnight is the window: water warm enough for long swims, coves with no one in them and a harbour with room at every table. The island in this season is less of a scene and more of a place.

A week here can pass without once putting on a pair of shoes with laces.

Neighbouring islands: What to Wear in Naxos  ·  What to Wear in Amorgos  ·  What to Wear in Paros